Every Log Home magazine has a section dedicated to floor plans, where the aspiring owners start their search for the perfect dream home. I did it too, and dutifully ordered piles of plan books, while starting my comparison shopping based on the beauty of the photos. Little did I realize – until later – that what was really drawing my attention was the third dimension: the roof lines, the porches, and the soaring great rooms.
At the beginning, we think we need to choose a manufacturer based on their floor plans, but once we realize that we can design our own custom home with any company, things start getting interesting. After all, interior wall partitions can be moved at will, and the log home company really doesn’t care where you put the bathroom. How many different ways can you configure an open floor plan?
What really requires thought is the interaction between the second floor and the roof lines. The first floor is comparatively simple; you’ve either got a cathedral ceiling, or a regular ceiling. However, once you go upstairs, there’s a whole new set of considerations. First of all, what kind of roof do you envision? The simplest (and most economical) roof line is one long ridge from one side to the other. The angle and height of the roof slope determines how much floor space you are going to lose because of the pitch. There’s a good chance you don’t have as much useful space as the second floor plan indicates, unless you’re two feet tall. Once the log home architect turns your plans into real drawings, he will “gray out” the dead space, but it’ll save costly revisions to be able to conceptualize the third dimension ahead of time.
For instance, I wanted a 45-degree angle in my roof; this is a 12/12 pitch (in other words, the roof rises 12 inches for every 12 inch horizontal run). I have a 28 foot-wide house and I wanted the slope to go all the way to from peak to floor in my loft. The peak measures about 14 feet from the second floor deck, and I lose 6 feet of floor space to stand upright, if I were 6 feet tall. (I’m speaking in broad generalizations here – not precise measurements.) My loft extends halfway into the great room, so this leaves me about 8 good feet of width in the loft – not the 14 feet my homemade floor plan shows.
How do I increase my living space? By adding a dormer. The wider the dormer, the more space you regain. This adds cost to the whole project, but it’s well worth it. Some narrow dormers do little more than add light, while a shed dormer widens the whole room. Your choice of dormer will be determined by the look you want on the outside. Or, you can add a gable and create an Alpine-look, which will give you a big triangular-shaped wall instead of a slope. A third option would be to add “knee walls”, thus raising up the whole roof. However, if you want the same pitch, this means the peak will be correspondingly higher from the ground.
The roof pitch was a huge factor in the placement of my staircase. The stairs run along the wall. I wanted extra square footage at the base of the steps, but to do so meant that the top of the stairs would emerge dangerously close to the ceiling slope. I would bang my head every time I went upstairs! So the stairs had to be situated so that they reached the loft in – or near – the middle of the house. Or, I could have added a landing and angled the stairs to keep them in the center. I opted to take a notch out of the loft and shift the stairs a few feet forward, calculating how much head room was left over. Still, I wasn’t sure how far the staircase would extend… that third dimension again! In the end, I had to sacrifice the potted plant I intended to put in the corner at the base of the stairs. There just wasn’t enough room to do it all.
Another difficult visualization is trying to see just how big those plate-glass windows really are. If you want a ranch with big great room windows, you may have to shorten the panes of glass to fit into a peak that only rises 14′ from the deck. It’s hard to fit a large window set in a small wall. Most of the beautiful windows in magazines take up well more than two stories – more like 24′. Perhaps a ranch with a loft is the best of both worlds.
I made the mistake of ordering windows so large that I cannot reach the center of the glass to clean it by hand. I certainly don’t want to rest my ladder in the middle of the window! What I didn’t learn until later is that if you order a window that’s too large (say, 6′x6′), the glass will bow ever so slightly under its own weight. This may cause the thermal seal to break, like it did after one year in my house. You’re better off using smaller, divided windows to create the same wall of glass.
The last thing I want to mention is to try and look at your roof from a bird’s eye view. How do your ridges line up? Do you have disconnected angles pointing in every direction? That will greatly increase the cost of construction. If you have a gable in the front and a gable in the rear, do they line up? Or could you line up a gable in the rear with a porch in the front? The more complicated the lines, the more costly the building.
The most amazing thing about building your log home is having to wait until it is nearly erected before you actually know what it’s going to look like. On a regular house the frame goes up first and the shape is defined. But with a log home, it can be a long wait before you get the whole effect. And once the roof is on, the effect can be almost magical.
By: Mercedes Hayes
Posts Tagged ‘Floor Space’
Designing Your Log Home: The Third Dimension
April 15th, 2010Home Improvement Tips to Increase the Market Value of Your Home
November 25th, 2009
Whether you plan on selling your house or simply want to improve your home’s functionality, there are certain home improvement projects that automatically increase the market value of your home.
One such improvement is kitchen remodeling. Key features to remember when remodeling a kitchen is adequate floor space, appliance placement for greatest meal preparation convenience and ease of mobility, and adequate storage space.
Kitchen Renovation / Kitchen Remodeling
The most common reasons people have for kitchen remodeling is: to upgrade materials, appliances, and fixtures, provide more floor space to accommodate more people in the kitchen at one time, and provide extra space so family members have a place to eat.
Replacing old kitchen cabinets with solid wood – whether oak, cherry, or even something less expensive like pine, and kitchen counter tops is a great way to increase the kitchen’s appearance and usability, as well as the market value of your home.
As one of the most expensive elements of kitchen remodeling, make cabinet selection carefully. Cabinets will have either dovetail or butt joints. Dovetail joints generally last longer. Cabinet draw bases should be mounted on quality glides.
If your kitchen is large enough and layout compatible, the addition of a peninsula counter would provide additional counter top work space. Extra cabinetry over the peninsula would provide more household storage space, as well.
Bathroom Renovation / Bathroom Remodeling
Another common renovation project that increases the market value of a home and makes it more functional is either the addition of another bathroom, or remodeling of an existing one. Like kitchen remodeling, bathroom remodeling most often requires the services of a professional contractor.
It is important to have detailed plans and know exactly what type renovation work you want before starting the project, so that code compliance laws are met and necessary permits obtained. Otherwise, work may have to be torn out and redone; high penalty fees and even imprisonment could also result.
Types of work that require permits include plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and new structure building. Depending upon project complexity, you might require the services of a professional designer in addition to those of a contractor.
Before beginning work, you will need a “material take-off list.” This is a list of materials needed to complete the job. The contractor usually provides the take off list. But if you are handling all or the majority of the renovation work yourself, you will need to prepare one.
Be specific when making your list. Instead of just a lavatory, specify the type. Pedestal lavatories can cost over $300, while a simple wall-hung model can cost under $70. Designer toilets can cost over $1,500 while a standard two-piece model will cost under $100. Shop around for the best quality, at the best price for your budget.
Plan your project months, instead of just weeks, before renovation work is to begin. This will give you ample time to take advantage of online resources that offer more competitive prices for materials, and qualified professionals to complete the project.
Wall Paneling
Wall paneling is another popular home improvement project. Paneling nearly any room of the house with quality, real wood paneling improves appearance and increases market value of the home. If you’re a “do-it-yourselfer” the following handy tips will insure perfect paneling results:
1.) Once you get your paneling home, allow for a period of adjustment. This is because paneling tends to shrink or expand with the changes in humidity. Let the panels adjust to their new home by separating the panels and stand each one up in the area where you plan to install it; allow them to rest for 2 or 3 days before installation.
2.) The key to perfect paneling is in the first panel; get the first panel straight and the rest will follow suit. To do this, align the first panel against a corner; tack it in place with a small nail centered at the top. Using a level, make sure the panel is plumb. If it doesn’t fit snugly against the adjoining wall, use a compass to scribe the panel edge next to the wall. Copy the slant of the wall onto the panel; remove the panel and trim to fit.
3.) Regardless how careful you are, it is inevitable that some panels will have visible space between them. Walls darker or lighter than the paneling will be obvious. To correct this problem use a can of spray paint close in color to the panel joint to spray a 2-or-3-inch strip of the wall between each seam before installing the panels.
4.) Paneling only mildly warped and ¼ inch or less thick can still be mounted successfully using both panel adhesive and paneling nails. Thicker paneling that is badly warped should be returned.
5.) Block walls with studs or furring strips should first be covered with wallboard before mounting paneling. Not only is this a fire safety measure often required by code, but walls will be stiffer and more substantial, without bowing or warping.
6.) To help camouflage nails in paneling, place them on a natural blemish or darker line of the grain pattern.
Other Remodeling Projects
Less costly home improvements that help increase the market value of a home include the addition of an indoor wall fountain as part of the room’s décor. They cost anywhere from $350 to $4,000 on up. A large quality rock, granite, copper, or glass fountain inserted into the wall becomes an impressive, eye-catching focal point.
Indoor water features like wall fountains add moisture to the air, help block out unwanted outside sounds such as those coming from neighbor’s yards and traffic, and add therapeutic atmosphere to the room.
Vinyl floor tiles are another way to improve a room’s appearance and market value of the home. Whether replacing a whole floor or replacing just the damaged tiles, do-it-yourselfers might find the most difficult part of the job is removing old tiles already in place. Using heat will help soften both the adhesive and the tile, making it easier to pry up using a putty knife.
Simply cover the tile to be removed with a cloth. With an iron set on medium heat, iron the cloth using slow, even strokes. If heat doesn’t remove the tile, use cold. Place a covered piece of dry ice on the tile (do not touch the ice directly). When the tile is cold enough, a sharp rap of the hammer should shatter it, for easier removal.
Summary
Before starting on any home improvement project, carefully consider project costs verses enhancement of family use, improved appearance, and increased market value potential to your home.
Plan your project carefully in advance, with plenty of time to shop around for best prices and selection of materials – as well as qualified contractors and other professionals to help get the job done right!
Be sure project meets building code requirements, and all permits are obtained before beginning the project. Plan well within your budget with funds to spare for unexpected expenses. All ingredients that help to insure project success!
By: Max Sheppard
Home Benefits from Ceiling Fans
November 17th, 2009
Ceiling fans are a popular fixture for good reason. Functionally similar to any other kind of electrical fan, ceiling fans have many benefits over their more conventional counterparts.
A ceiling fan is nothing more than an electrical fan that hangs from the ceiling, and optionally includes lighting. Ceiling fans are preferred by many people due to the space savings over the more conventional or portable fans that take up significant floor space.
Air circulation is a primary benefit of a ceiling fan. They are proven to make a room feel at least 4 degrees cooler than without any moving air. When installed over a kitchen dining table, the moving air helps to dissuade flying pests from entering the area.
Colder winter months benefit from a ceiling fan too. The moving air helps distribute the warm air coming from sources like a furnace or heat stove. Moving this heat around the home makes for a more even distribution of warmth.
Air conditioners do a fine job of cooling a home during hot summer months. But the bill for the electricity consumed can be prohibitive. Yet another benefit of ceiling fans is the energy savings on days where the heat isn’t so high that a ceiling fan cant make a room feel comfortable.
Indeed, the cost savings in electrical power are significant. Ceiling fans consume power at the rate of only pennies per day, while air conditioning units can consume power at the rate of dollars per day. Clearly, during spring and fall months, or even summer mornings / evenings, and ceiling fan can suffice for comfort in room temperature and wallet.
It is important to note – a ceiling fan run in the winter for warmth distribution needs to run clockwise to draw air up against the ceiling. Since warm air rises, this gives it a chance to get pushed around and mixed with the cooler air floating around below.
So where did this great idea come from?
Two dudes, father and son – James and John Hunter first invented the ceiling fan back in 1886. It was originally powered by water since there was no electrical system that you could simply plug into back then even though electricity had been discovered more than 100 year prior.
In 1903 the Emerson Electric Co incorporated the Hunters ceiling fan design in their products. Later the Hunter Fan company was spun off bearing the name of the original duo. Since then there’s been a great deal of evolution in design and technology. Today, there are countless ceiling fan designs offered by the Hunter Fan company.
Casablanca modern fans
Casablanca manufactures the most modern styles of ceiling fans available anywhere. The are beautifully crafted and luxurious ceiling fans. Casablanca fans are not inexpensive. Due to their appeal some of the designs can become collectors items. Don’t be surprised if you find these fans costing a pretty penny over other options.
Age has served the ceiling fan well, what with materials and technologies, and all – from water power to electricity, and light weight material blades, the ceiling fan is the most affordable option for temperature comfort going.
By: D Marx